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Author Topic: Solution to oil dipstick popping out  (Read 1349 times)
daniel Dee
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« on: March 10, 2009, 01:51:31 AM »

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/328272-oh-no-fire-stms-solution-your-dipstick-popping-out.html
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92 AWD TSI 5spd
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Lowell Foo
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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2009, 02:06:31 AM »

Think about how small the area of the dipstick seal is, and then consider how much crank case pressure you need to actually pop it out of the tube.  It would be a far better idea to simply vent the crank case. 
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Matt Mann
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« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2009, 06:21:21 PM »

I'm glad I dont have this problem *knock on wood* but $50 seems expensive considering you could fab something up and buy a 50 cent spring.

IMO good find, but $50 could go towards something else
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Ryan Coft
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« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2009, 06:47:08 PM »

had this exact same thing on my last build, helped with oil spraying everywhere for sure.

This time i just vented the crankcase properly but i'll probably still throw a spring on my dipstick just to make sure it stays in. Nothing worse than an engine fire.
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Brett Haviland
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009, 05:11:13 PM »

yeah big boost causes this or blowby on a stock engine.  If your engine is totally stock and its blowing the dipstick tube out you prob have bad rings and its getting too much blowby.  You can of course just use some wire or something to hold it down.  I have heard 2G dipsticks dont pop out as easily as well.  On my talon when i turn my boost up it sometimes pops the dipstick.  I rigged up a setup McGyver style myself.   My colt on the other hand never pops the dipstick out even on higher boost.  And it has 250 000 km's on that engine.  You can also try and replace your old dipstick with a new one as sometimes the rubber gets hard and worn out and pops out easily.  Like i said a 2G plastic one works better then a metal 1G one..
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Lowell Foo
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2009, 07:27:28 PM »

I've seen numerous bad PCV valves that blow boost pressure into the valve cover.  The last one, I did a leak down test and all four cylinders were 1-2% so I couldn't figure out why the dipstick was popping.  A boost leak test showed a large leak through the PCV.
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92 Talon AWD, 50 trim, 11.55 @ 127mph w/ 399whp.
90 Talon AWD, 11.40 @ 123 ~ 10 years ago.  Currently in storage.
chao hwa yin
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« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2009, 01:53:48 AM »

I made something like that for my dipstick long ago,      just go source the " door spring back spring " at canadian tire,   """""" pick  a spring slightly LARGER than the oil stick tube itself """",    slide the door spring/coil over the oil dip stick tube and clamp the bottom with a hose clamp,  angle the spring coil the other end to catch the top oil dip stick.      U might have to play with the hose clamp that hold the lower part of the spring to set some preload to it.

cost $  3,
installation time 5 min.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 02:02:18 AM by chao hwa yin » Logged

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Mike Hewitt
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2009, 05:16:17 PM »

I found an old sparkplug boot. Cut about an inch and a half of it off and slid it over top. So far so good!
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John Hartman
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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2009, 08:57:25 PM »

I simply bought a new dipstick at the Stealership.  It was only $22 so not too bad.

I like the creativity tho, nice work you guys  Cheesy
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DarrylDhaliwal
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2009, 08:57:39 PM »

haha Cheap but easy way i did was 2 small Hose clamps and clamped it to the tube and hooked spring to dip stick and little spray paint and problem solved Cheesy

$3.00 Cheesy
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Jesse Veitch
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« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2009, 09:23:49 PM »

One of the problems is the modification of the crankcase ventilation setup from stock.  Modifying the way it works is not a good idea at all, improving upon it is.

Add a catch can between your intake mani and the PCV, upgrade the PCV to a better valve.  Add a catch can between the vent and the intake.  Don't reroute either one to atmosphere or any other way... it's designed like that for a reason.  The atmosphere doesn't suck out the pressure like your IM under idle, or your pre-turbo intake during boost.  You'll also make more power if you're crank case is under vacuum, and not just atmospherically vented.

I've never understood the fascination with modifying this setup, it just doesn't make sense.
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Zach Holt
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« Reply #11 on: July 31, 2009, 01:01:59 AM »

i just made it so my valve cover could breath and it was good to go.
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daniel Dee
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« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2009, 11:12:43 PM »

One of the problems is the modification of the crankcase ventilation setup from stock.  Modifying the way it works is not a good idea at all, improving upon it is.

Add a catch can between your intake mani and the PCV, upgrade the PCV to a better valve.  Add a catch can between the vent and the intake.  Don't reroute either one to atmosphere or any other way... it's designed like that for a reason.  The atmosphere doesn't suck out the pressure like your IM under idle, or your pre-turbo intake during boost.  You'll also make more power if you're crank case is under vacuum, and not just atmospherically vented.

I've never understood the fascination with modifying this setup, it just doesn't make sense.

If the air in the crankcase is not allowed to ventilate oil will leak everywhere...
Hod Rodders have been venting their crankcase with valve cover breathers since the 50's.....

My engine is new with very low leak downs yet you can feel the air pulsing out of my -10 valve cover breather hole at idle.... This mod alone has stopped my dipstick from lifting at 25+ boost.
The PCV valve system is far too small to suck out anything from my crankcase....
It is a emissions pieces allowing the oil fumes not to escape into the atmosphere.

A few high boost people have lost their new motor due to engine fire cause by the dipstick lifting..
(check out DSMtuners)   
Hi boost creates high crankcase pressure,,,
Also any oil in the PCV valve system helps create detonation so now you can blow up your motor before you set it on fire.
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92 AWD TSI 5spd
Built motor ,AEM EMS, Arc2 cdi 650cc&1000cc Staged injectors Billet S366 T4,top mount manifold. 530 AWHP street boost 666 AWHP race boost (RG Dyno 2010). Coilovers
90 TSI (gone), 95 TSI 5 spd sold, 93 Mazda 5sp(sold), 97 Acura 5spd Vtec
Ryan Singh
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« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2009, 03:19:11 AM »

I've gotten lipstick on my dipstick many times, oil everywhere!  Grin
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Jesse Veitch
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« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2009, 09:14:13 PM »

Venting doesn't work as well as actually sucking out the fumes with vacuum.

I think the PCV system would be fine for your crankcase, or anybody else's, since it's only active when you're not making any boost.  As soon as you make boost, the PCV closes and your pre-turbo intake connection to the valve cover will then take over.  The only thing you really need to do is put a better valve inline with the PCV so high boost won't back-feed into your crank case, as the PCV leaks pretty easily when closed.

This valve works great:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/variant.asp?catalog_name=usplastic&category_name=45&product_id=15641&variant_id=64175

Using a larger line to the intake pre-turbo would make sense to suck out more fumes when you're actually boosting, but I can't see it being any help on the PCV.

You'll make more power with a crankcase under vacuum instead of just vented, you'll also have less corrosive fumes floating around in there.

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