1G wheel bearing

[Matt Mann]

Just wondering if they are machine pressed in? I assume they are.. I am not sure if I have some wheel bearing issue at the moment, the noise is occuring on Front passenger side but doesn't sound like a typical grinding squealing noise or whatev.

[Remi Raymond]

Rears are press-in
Fronts are a sealed unit within the hub and is a walk in the park to change compared to the rear so if it is the front consider yourself lucky.

I believe lordco sells new 1g hubs for around 100$ or so.

[Brett Haviland]

Actually i believe the 1G front bearings ARE a pressed in style bearing where you would have to remove the whole knuckle/spindle from the vehicle and off the axel either use a press to remove the hub and bearing... or you can sometimes get away with some big sockets and a good hammer.  There might be a big C-clip in there too once you get the hub out so you can remove the bearing.

The 2G talons use a hub assembly that can just be unbolted and re-installed without having to press anything out or such.

maybe someone could confirm this for me... but im almost 100% on this.

[Richard Clark]

You are correct Brett, I did mine without a press but a press would of made it much simpler.

[Brett Haviland]

also...  "front passenger side"

Sorry to say this but that is also the side that your tranny is on.  Hopefully you dont have bearings going inside your tranny which will also cause noises similar to wheel bearings.

My evo makes some "wheel bearing" kinda noise.... not sure if its the actual bearings or the tranny/diff bearings causing it.  Its very minor tho and theres no play in the bearings so im not too worried about it

[Kristopher Rozon]

I've changed mine without a press as well.
I won't do that again

[Remi Raymond]

I Stand corrected then

 

[Matt Mann]

also...  "front passenger side"

Sorry to say this but that is also the side that your tranny is on.  Hopefully you dont have bearings going inside your tranny which will also cause noises similar to wheel bearings.

Well I am going to look at my car tomorrow, the history of my car is that was sitting for a year, and a month ago I put it back on the road. I really hope its not tranny issues. It seems to start when I am rolling to a stop or at least i can hear it only then

[Brett Haviland]

yeah prob wheel bearing... or diff bearings.  Pray and hope its wheel bearing.

i mean trannys can go for years with worn bearings....or they can blow up into pieces all over the highway

(trust me, i know about this) lol

[Ryan Singh]

LOL, you can ask Tommy and Lowell about how much fun my bearings were!

[John Hartman]

so you did pay someone to do it. 

I bet it wasn't much cheaper, and if you factor in all your extra time and the gas to get out to where it was already on a hoist, then home, then out to RG?

[Brett Haviland]

Ryan... The hubs siezed into the knuckles???


Seen that time and time before at work working on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks

Sucks ASS!!  We had  a knuckle in a hydrolic press one onetime...  pressing the CRAP out of it... and even hitting it with a sledge at the same time...  Never came out.  Stupid chevy.

[Ryan Singh]

Yeah John...I had no choice but to do so. Tried myself and couldn't get anything off.

But Brett...that's exactly what happened. Then the axle wouldn't even separate from it either...they ended up breaking the axle trying to get it off.
On the other side, when they tried separating the hub from the knuckle...they applied 20 tonnes of force on the hydraulic press and still nothing! The knuckle ended up breaking!

So yeah...good times for all!

Sorry John, but I bet it was way cheaper going the route I did.

The dude at your shop quoted me $590 to do the bearing and alignment. I asked him to give me a breakdown on the price as why it would be so much to do just a bearing. This is what he said:
He quoted me $270 for the bearing/hub assembly, said he was getting it from Lordco. I was able to get the same thing from Lordco for $90
Then 1.5 hours labor was whatever he said the rate was...and also $89 for the alignment. And that's assuming that everything went smooth and just came apart nicely.

So given that all that happened afterwards...I'm sure that I would have ended up paying over a grand for just that, had I gone with him.

[Brett Haviland]

Ryan...The price that you were quoted by the shop John works at is a totally normal quote for your typical shop, using good quality parts.  There is also good price mark up on parts.... thats just how shops work... and remember they are marking up the price from a price that is still higher then what you would be able to get the bearing for.  

AT that price for the bearings you bought, you put a shitty quality bearing in. They are manufactured in china and are not of the best quality. (fenco dynapack bearing).  They are known to fail again within a very short amount of time.  Seen it happen many times at work.

The quote that johns shop would have gave you is for a good quality bearing probably.  (SKF or similar quality).  The labour is what it should be.

Hope to hell you dont have to replace those dynapack bearings again in the next year or whatever... but at least now that everything was taken apart it should come apart A LOT easier as long as everything had grease or anti-sieze smeared on it.

If you dont mind me asking how much did the labour costs end up coming to at RG with all the issues they had with removing the hub/bearing assembly?

[Ryan Singh]

The reason I got it for so cheap was because my uncle owns a transmission shop and I get a 40% discount off everything from Lordco through his account. I'm not sure on the brand but I'll have to check.

My car was at RG for 2 days, and the labor was about $550...so I still got a better deal.