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Author Topic: Tran. is killing me.  (Read 355 times)
Doug Mercer
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« on: September 03, 2010, 11:18:08 PM »

I have been having a problem with my tran. it keeps pulling away from my engine. I tighten the bolt and it makes this gross grinding noise. Which is from the starter. I tighten the starter bolts and it is a little quiter but i know it is hitting the flywheel. I tried to pull my tran. and I couldnt get it free for the life of me.. is there some technique to get the SOB off. Ive done it several times before, mabey by fluke.

    I was driving home from work tonight and it was giving me a hard time getting into gears and it feels like my brakes are slightly on. But I believe it may just be either my starter or transfer case grinding my frlywheel.. Im really stuck here guys
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Brad Taddeo
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2010, 10:13:30 AM »

I will swing by tomorrow.  I don't have alot of time, but I will do what I can.  txt me when you get up 650.4390
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Richard Clark
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2010, 11:32:59 AM »

Do you have a starter plate between your trans and block?
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Doug Mercer
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2010, 12:03:09 PM »

yes i do.. It sounds like my starter isn't close enough to the tran.   I'm swapping trans. anyways the one i have in now has a cracked upper left ear, and the bottom left 10mm bolt broke off in the bell housing. how lovely it was to discover that my tran. was pulling away from my block.
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Marke Bailey
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« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2010, 12:08:11 PM »

Do you have the right starter? they are different between auto and std.
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The Sleepy Slushbox.

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Shane Sawatzki
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« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2010, 12:19:34 PM »

ooooohh boy... iv been down this road 3 or 4 times with my old 1g... goto mitsu and order all the bellhousing bolts, the proper ones. if its the same thing that happened to me... 3 times over, when putting that trans in i used whatever bolts i had that fit. turns out the 1 smaller 12mm bolt at the back closest to the firewall is a special hardened bolt, they all are. i used a throttle body bolt , nothing fancy and with my ACT 2600 clutch it actually was enough pressure to just snap the head right off that smaller bolt, causing the back part of the trans to push away from the engine when pressing the clutch in. which in turn caused stress on the rest of the bellhousing making the front "ear" crack. I have had 3 broken transmissions because of this  Embarrassed
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Doug Mercer
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« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2010, 12:35:48 PM »

Wow. Shane  that really paints the picture for me. Thank you so much! Smiley   I believe I have the right starter I parted out a 1g and I took the engine and transmission when I did a rebuild.    I guess this is what happens when you get your rebuild done and you do a half ass job of putting it back in.. I was just super excited to drive again. I gotta pay more attention before I really mess something up
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Shane Sawatzki
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« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2010, 06:12:37 PM »

look similar to this?



when i got the trans out i actually had 2 parts crack completely off the bellhousing...






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Greg Durban
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« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2010, 07:32:17 PM »

look similar to this?



when i got the trans out i actually had 2 parts crack completely off the bellhousing...







This looks exactly how the transmission was in my car when I first bought it......
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Cole MacDonald
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« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2010, 10:02:10 PM »

Do you have the right starter? they are different between auto and std.

I'm using my auto starter with the five speed conversion Undecided
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Doug Mercer
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« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2010, 11:24:07 PM »

Whoa! Dang Shane* mine isn't that bad but I'm sure if I left it, it would have gotten there.  Same crack on the upper right ear tho.   


I got a new tran. in there!!
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Shane Sawatzki
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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2010, 02:00:59 AM »

good thing you dealt with it fast enough then. like i said hopefully u got all the proper trans bolts holding it all togethor and not just some that "work" like i did. After the 3rd trans of mine broke I also noticed it cracked the ear off of the cast iron block as well making that bottom end useless unless someone where to try and weld that ear back on because even with a new trans, with that ear off of the block the trans would be 1 mount short.
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Marke Bailey
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« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2010, 05:47:16 AM »

Do you have the right starter? they are different between auto and std.

I'm using my auto starter with the five speed conversion Undecided

I was using a 5spd starter for a while then occasionally it would seize and I would have to tap it with a hammer to get it to start again.
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John Hartman
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« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2010, 02:47:55 AM »

thats just a shitty starter  Smiley Its how you diagnose a no start.  Have someone tap it lightly while you are trying to get the car to crank and if it fires up you need a starter or at least the contacts.

Shane, you are the tranny re&re guy now  Cheesy

Doug, make sure that the bellhousing and engine block are both flat and free of any debris or anything keeping them from fully fitting togeather and that both dowels are lined up and fully engaging.  If there is any crud in a dowel hole the dowel can't fit right in tight and won't align the trans properly.  This will cause the starter issues to as it will be slighty at an angle and the gears won't mesh properly.
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Stacey Shaw
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« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2010, 10:34:33 AM »

Another tip for the dowels and the holes the dowels go into, add a little grease/lube to them before installing, makes life much easier.  I also use a grinding stone (for knife sharpening) and smooth out all edges on trans and block.  For added info, I also do all gasket surfaces with the stone also, some wd40 and light pressure, I haven't had gasket leaks since.  Especially oil pan and valve cover.
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