Eibach Pro on KYB GR2 with no camber kit

[Robert Low]

Hi Everyone.  I've done lots of research on this on the web but want to hear from people local how they feel about a 1gb on Eibach Pros and KYB GR2 without any camber kit.  I have the springs and will receive the KYB GR2's next week.  I read that the drop is too little to need one.  Does anyone here have the same setup?  Thanks!

[Ken Hawkins]

The GR2's are OK, but do not have a stellar reputation for durability. But then, my commute is EXTREMELY hard on suspensions. Because they are a little stiffer than stock, they should work well with a little harder of spring. I am using them with stock-rated springs.

HTH
Ken

[Brett Haviland]

KYB GR2 are a great oem replacement shock.

You won't need any camber bolts with the mild drop of the pro kits.  The rear has adjustible camber stock so you can probably dial out a bit of negative camber on the rear.

Seems like a good suspension setup to me.

[Robert Low]

Ken: I just drive around in the city so the roads are pretty smooth.  I'm just hoping that the GR2s are durable enough to handle the mild lowering.  They seem to be from what I've read.  Thanks.

Brett: Thanks for the input.  I trust you guy's opinions more than just what I read on other forums.

Can I just take my car to any place that does suspension to have the springs and shocks installed or should I take them to someone who knows DSMs?  It seems like overkill to take my car to a performance specialist and the only other place I know of by reputation (and trust) is John's workplace in Abbottsford.  It seems a bit far just for suspension.

[Brett Haviland]

Its a pretty strait forward job... I'm sure any shop could do it.  Make sure you get a good alignment after a couple days (if the springs are new they will settle a 1/2 inch or so.  What I would do is get the new suspension in and drive on it for a couple weeks... Then get a alignment. Done.  Unless you want to pay to get it aligned twice... Your tires will wear a bit extra for the couple weeks, but its probably cheaper in the long run to wait till the springs settle before getting a alignmenlt

[Robert Low]

I noticed you said if the springs are new.  What if my springs are not new?  Do I need to let them settle or can I get an alignment right after installation?

[Drew Sale]

if the springs are used then they've probably already gone through the break-in process

[Remi Raymond]

springs don't have a break in process...

[Brett Haviland]

Every new set of lowering springs i have put in remi sit about a inch or  .5" higher then they do after a week of driving...
 

They do settle...  so if you align it with them freshly installed and set the toe... after a week or so it will be off and your tires will wear out faster.

Trust me...


If they are used springs i would imagine they wont "settle" as much as a new set of springs.. 

[Remi Raymond]

Every new set of lowering springs i have put in remi sit about a inch or  .5" higher then they do after a week of driving...
 

They do settle...  so if you align it with them freshly installed and set the toe... after a week or so it will be off and your tires will wear out faster.

Trust me...


If they are used springs i would imagine they wont "settle" as much as a new set of springs..  

Yeah I misread the posting, I though there were talking about an actual break in procedure.


and as an aside, i've never noticed that with the springs i've purchased/installed, oddly.

[Robert Low]

Thanks Everyone for your advice!  I think my springs have already gone through their break-in period and hopefully won't get into the "break-down" period any time soon.  I'm hoping I could just align it the one time after install and be done.

[Brett Haviland]

yeah if they are used u can probably just align it right after and be fine.... just take a tape measure and measure ur ride height... if it changes a bunch then u know u hafta align it again in the future.... it will probably be fine tho.

[CamWeiss]

Um... Just a thought. Or correction?

I've never known 1G's to have adjustable camber of any sort on the rear of the car. It is what it is, unless you go get adjustable control arms. The front has a mild amount of adjustable camber. If you're having a shop install the struts, it might be worth it to go buy a set of camber bolts to get a bit more adjustability - They have to pull the bolts where camber bolts would go in anyway, just give them a set to install while they're at it. Camber bolts are cheap and can get you ~1.5 degrees of adjustability. Even Lordco would have them.

Just a note on camber, especially for the rear: Having a bit of negative camber isn't a bad thing if the car is aligned properly and the tires aren't 'dragging' as a result of excessive toe. Heavy camber wear occurs when the toe is set too far in/out and the tire is 'dragging' down the road at a quarter degree out on that smaller contact patch caused by negative camber.

KYB's aren't really built for lowering, but they can (just like a stock shock) take a mild drop without much sacrifice in longevity. Make sure your bumpstops are good.

Otherwise, have fun with your non-4x4 stance!

[Robert Low]

Thanks Cam!  I'll check with Lordco to see if they have a camber kit for for the rear.  I want a bit of flexibility just in case (especially when they don't cost that much ... I think).

[CamWeiss]

Well, a camber kit for the front consists of a pair of eccentric bolts that replace stock bolts. $40ish.

A camber kit for the rear consists of a new control arm with a threaded collar for adjustability (Think like a tie rod end). $300ish, available online.