seeking expertise with ecmlink and SD....

[Jason Swan]

Finally have my car with all 4 wheels on the ground and all the kinda necessary bits in functioning order.

I am now trying to get an initial tune going on the thing as it does not have a baseline tune and am having a lot of difficulty getting it setup.  I am following this guide - How To Tune a 1G V3 SD ECMLink with no MAF v1.4 - and am hung up on trying to get STFT and LTFTLo (combinedFT in other words) within acceptable parameters.  STFT is sitting at -16.8 and LTFTLo is sitting at -12.5 and neither is budging regardless of what I do to deadtime or global fuel.  The car runs pig-rich (10-11afr) but not much I do seems to bring it to where it needs to be.

Have posted to ecmtuning forums but so far no useful responses.

I'm missing something which would probably be seen in five minutes by someone who's done it before.  Car is in mission - will be working on it tonight and the weekend.

I was really hoping to hit the Toy Run....

[Richard Steger]

If you don't want to pay Racing Greed for a top notch dyno tune, pm Vlad.  He's quite experienced plus I think he's willing to travel a bit in the lower mainland...

[Jason Swan]

Right at this point I can't get it to RG short of trailering it....

[John Hartman]

does your coolant temp sensor read correctly?  If its wired in wrong or faulty, it will be rich at normal temps.

If your coolant temp, your IAT, your wideband O2 and your MAP sensor are all wired in and functioning correctly, you should be able to add/subtract fuel and see your trims change.

Log O2 trim(not lt or st or low or high, the actual O2 trim)  When the car is in closed loop it should cycle like a sine wave. More frequency for higher rpm, but it should cycle at cruise and idle.

Average where its cycling to get your "trim"  Add a few ticks of fuel.  It should go lower.  Take some out, it should go higher.

If this is not working you need to find out where the wiring is off, or what sensor is not reading correctly.

Log and look at the coolant temp sensor readout.  It should correspond to outside temps when the car has been sitting for a long time and gradually rize to about 200 after being driven.

log and look at the MAP sensor one.  It should be around 15 or so at idle, go to 0 at light acell and go into boost when you think it should.

IAT should be similar to coolant temp, but obviously not exactly the same.

[Jason Swan]

Found the problem - I had made up a wire harness to plug into the maf plug for the map and iat, and I got the pin assignments wrong. Fixed the pins and all my problems went away. Car is on the road and drive able now.

However, of course my front signal lights don't work now.  FML.  If its not one thing its another.  Have checked fuses, bulbs and flasher.  Nothing seems wrong with any of them. However, voltage at the socket is 0, 2.5, 5v peak.  No higher.  If I run the hazards, it hits 10v peak.

Not sure what the behaviour is supposed to be voltage wise.

[Jason Swan]

Turns out plug on harness had rotted - pins on the bulb socket were not making good contact. Ended up just adding two ends to the wires and attaching directly to the bulb socket - obviously not weathertight. Have to make another trip out to the junkyard and cut the wiring plugs out to replace mine, I guess.