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Author Topic: act smooth spline hub  (Read 440 times)
Vlad Busta
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« on: December 03, 2011, 04:40:18 PM »

Check out Jordan's smooth spline ACT six puck disk :-)

 

Lol.
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Jordan Kruger
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2011, 07:16:37 PM »

Not having luck with ACT disks....   
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Chad Giffen
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2011, 08:33:40 PM »

I dont think that's a disk problem.

Me thinks something caused a lock out on your drivetrain and you sheared that spline right off.

Basically your driveshaft wouldn't move and the clutch was engaged and the motor running.
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Jordan Kruger
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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2011, 08:57:14 PM »

I think its just due to a few launches with a solid hub disk that is a weak design. There are a few forum topics involving this same issue. Where the splines are stripped right out of the ACT solid hub 6puck.
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Replacing parts since early 2010.
Chad Giffen
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2011, 09:09:51 PM »

Ya without the springs in the hub, the impact those splines see on a launch is unbelievable. Thats a brave choice you made getting that hub and then launching it.

The springs distribute the impact over a longer time span (a few milliseconds), but that makes all the difference in the world.


Fracture toughness of a metal is how much energy it can absorb before a failure mechanism occurs. In this case, shear. The springs store the energy and distribute over a larger timespan, decreasing the amount of energy the metal has to absorb at one time.

I wonder if ACT hardened that hub enough without making it too brittle.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2011, 09:11:56 PM by Chad Giffen » Logged

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Jordan Kruger
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« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2011, 10:22:45 PM »

I just bought a new 2600pp and 6puck sprung kit. My tranny splines look ok with a small amount of wear.  No different than before the solid hub disk went in. (thank goodness)  There are so many things I want to do while I have everything apart.   

I decided to replace everything in the bellhousing while im in there.     
    revised clutch fork + pivotball + oem release bearing + release bearing clip + ACT 2600pp/6puck sprung disk.   
Anyone using the extended slavecylinder rod?  I bought one of those from RTM aswell.

Look forward to getting this done and GETTING A TUNE!

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Replacing parts since early 2010.
andrew volcz
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2011, 11:13:51 PM »

you curse ACT clutches at almost every opportunity, yet you went with another ACT  Huh
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Lowell Foo
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« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2011, 11:40:21 PM »

I can't really see what an extended slave cyl rod does besides using a different part of the slave cyl bore.  Clutch fork, pivot ball, pedal assy and hydraulic line are the important ones. 
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Brett Haviland
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2011, 01:08:33 AM »

any wear on your input shaft splines on the tranny will cause play between it and the clutch disk splines.  I could see using that solid hub disk with splines that are already worn causing what happend pretty easily.    There is a reason why all OEM manufactures use springs and dampners in there clutch disks..

This could continue to happen again and destroy the sprung clutch disks hub as well.. just wont happen as fast as the solid hub one did.

The proper fix for this will probably be a new input shaft for your transmission if the new disk you put in does the same thing.
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Greg Durban
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2011, 11:04:37 AM »

Almost every post I read this spring when I was having issues with my clutch this spring said to not use the extended rod because its just a "band-aid", which i'm sure you would already have read about. Figured i'd throw that out there for ya, and if you bought a new fork, pivot ball, so on and so forth then there should be absolutely no need for the extended rod to be used.
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Jordan Kruger
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2011, 01:13:29 PM »

Im going to see how well the clutch system works before trying the extended slave rod. With a new steel clutch-line, newer pedal assembly, new master, new slave, new pressure plate, new disk, new pivotball, and new revised fork.  I think it should work great now   lol.

Everything clutch will be brand spankin new.  Grin
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Replacing parts since early 2010.
Greg Durban
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« Reply #11 on: December 05, 2011, 02:10:08 AM »

When your launching off the line, how do you go about it??? Preload with the e-brake, just dump it, or slight slip and then a dump?? And also what rpm's do you launch at usually???
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CamWeiss
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« Reply #12 on: December 05, 2011, 02:36:14 AM »

Actually interested to hear how he launches.

For me, it's no preload, 4-5k, slip then dump.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stTgfUcuUyI

(mind you, I'm on a sprung full disc hub)
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 02:38:14 AM by CamWeiss » Logged

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Jordan Kruger
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« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2011, 09:12:36 AM »

5000 rpm stutter     slip'n'launch    I slip enough to pre-load the drivetrain then release.  By the appearance of the clutch disks I replace, youd think I do an 8000rpm dump.  haha
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337awhp.  ---> 400awhp ? =)

Replacing parts since early 2010.
Greg Durban
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2011, 10:03:07 AM »

hahaha yea no doubt.
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