yet another dsm problem. help. SOLVED YESSSSS!!!!

[GlenMartin]

well I have been having many a dsm problems this summer. I finally decided to put my car back together. problem after problem. finding parts and so on has been hell because of where I live and parts people being idiots. so I finally got all the parts and everything rebuilt. throttle body and so on. no more boost leaks. I was boost leaking out of my injectors insulators. had to order replacements from ziggy. got them installed them. boost leak tested. nothing. holds 16 psi. I let it sit like that for about 5 minutes. I take the car for a drive. studdering as soon as I hit boost. like I don't have the maf hooked up. but I do. this happens 1/4 throttle. 1/2 throttle. full throttle. at idle it runs fine. idles better than it ever has. on account of the throttle rebuild no doubt. at idle it boosts and the bov vents. which it never did before, so I know I am building boost way faster. so I am thinking what did I change. I changed the tps position. so I go to vfaq, follow directions. it says the resistance between pin 1-4 should be 5 k ohms. the closest I could get was 4.75k no matter what I did it would not go above that. so now I set the closed position. pin 4-2. vfaq says to set it to .9 ohms. even though Haynes says 1.1 ohms. I was able to get that no problem. I open the throttle slowly using my hand and the ohm reading goes up to 4.75 and stays there. so my tps is set. take it for a drive. same thing. the only other thing is that my throttle cable seems really lose. I tighten it, and it still feels lose. if I tighten it to where I think it should be it already starts to open the throttle. I followed vfaq for this as well. pretty straight forward but I thought I would double check. I cleaned my maf with maf cleaner nothing. no change. the only other thing I changed was I put those new insulators and new O-rings on my injectors. visual inspection.......no pissing fuel anywhere. at idle my 02 reading is always lean. no frigging idea why. under boost its always good. or rather always rich. I am so at a loss. if anyone feels like helping me being able to drive my car for the first time in four years please help.

[Travis Koch]

How are the pig tails to the injectors?  Plugs and wires ok?  I had a stutter on acceleration and found it was a bad plug wire, tiny pin hole in the side of the boot caused arcing but only when the engine was loaded.

We (BCDSM) should really get together as a group and rather than go for a drive with well tuned cars, those with "issues" should bring their cars and we'll all try to figure those problems in person.

[Greg Durban]

Pull your ECU and check the capacitors for leakage. Had the exact same problem with one of my cars I bought and the guy I bought it from swore the issue was a boost leak at the throttle body but sure enough the ECU was toast. Replaced it and the car pulled to 7000 RPM's all day long.

[Lowell Foo]

What year is your car?

[GlenMartin]

Sorry guys, 95 eagle talon awd. The car ran better than this, with a huge boost leak so I am suspecting electrical too. I will check ecu and all connections tomorrow as well. might as well get new plug wires mine are looking a little old. Although they probably have under 20,000 km.

[Travis Koch]

i'm gonna switch my 95 ecu for a 98 reflash.  If you want to borrow mine to test you are welcome to. 

[GlenMartin]

How are the pig tails to the injectors?  Plugs and wires ok?  I had a stutter on acceleration and found it was a bad plug wire, tiny pin hole in the side of the boot caused arcing but only when the engine was loaded.

We (BCDSM) should really get together as a group and rather than go for a drive with well tuned cars, those with "issues" should bring their cars and we'll all try to figure those problems in person.

although I love this idea, I don't think it realistic. I don't think we all have that much spare time on our hands. dsms have a lot of problems. hahahah. the only good thing about this car is it is making me a better "mechanic" I cant wait to insure it, and burn it, then buy another Honda.

i'm gonna switch my 95 ecu for a 98 reflash.  If you want to borrow mine to test you are welcome to. 

I would love that but I live like 8 hours away from you. I don't live on the lower mainland, or else I would of given this car to brett to fix a long time ago, and watch as it infuriates him just as much as it has infuriated me. never had a car more riddled with problems.

[GlenMartin]

done and rechecked everything, tried another set of wires. no change. I am so at a loss. would a busted pcv valve cause this? or contribute to this. another thing that I changed, and forgot to mention was my knock sensor. with a brand new one that Andrew sold me.

[GlenMartin]

well after working on the car again today removing the ecu, I realized......hey where is my stereo??some asshole stole my stereo out of my car. just rub salt in the wound. found that my pcv vavle is in fact faulty and leaking causing another boost leak. but going to have to wait a week or more for an order for a new one. lordco's replacement brands leak almost as bad, and they don't have a check valve either. or the counter person is just to lazy to go in the back and look.

[Jason Swan]

Rtmracing for the PVC (and other stuff). Have you tried a known good ecu in it yet?

[GlenMartin]

Ya I am going to do the rtm racing but not pumped to spend $18 for shipping for that, I hate where I live for grabbing parts. The ecu is my next step, just have to track one down. I live in the kootenays so it's really hard for me be aide there is no local support. When I try and order parts at lordco the people look at me like I am trying to order parts for a Ferrari or something it's so frustrating. Thank you for the reply Jason.

[Markus Johnson]

A bad ECU will make the car feel like it is missing, bucking or breaking up throughout the RPM range, I would suspect that first, especially after you fixed all those boost leaks. Don't give up! I'm sure it the issue can be fixed!

[Brett Haviland]

yeah, I have definalty seen ecu's cause this sort of problem... but also bad MAF, bad o2 sensor cause similar problems.  could also be something ignition related like a bad coil back or power transisitor.  also could be a power or ground problem as well.



good luck, and hopefully the new ECU fixes it./

[Jason Swan]

With regards to rtm, check their other shipping options - can post doesn't get offered by default and it is usually way cheaper.  I will usually throw other things in I know I will or might need in the future (like bolts, gaskets and other hardware) into rtm orders to make the shipping more worthwhile as well.

[GlenMartin]

With regards to rtm, check their other shipping options - can post doesn't get offered by default and it is usually way cheaper.  I will usually throw other things in I know I will or might need in the future (like bolts, gaskets and other hardware) into rtm orders to make the shipping more worthwhile as well.

ya I did that too with my previous order.