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Author Topic: **HELP**she wont boost, stalls.  (Read 1535 times)

Offline Charn Gill

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« on: November 01, 2003, 08:52:33 pm »
okay heres the situation, bout 3 hours ago was driving up fraser hwy. came to a light, light went green im in first gear, then, as im exiting the intersection i go to second, thought id get on it a bit so i do, everythings fine, teh turbo starts spooling up etc..speed is accelerating,, around 5 grand or so i go to change into third and all the sudden, theres a hesitation -like a fuel cut or something. I let off, and get into neutral. next thing thta happens is the rpms just drop and the car stalls. As im rollin, i try to srat her up again and no good. so i pull into the tim hortons with the little bit of speed that I have left. My first thought -because it happened before to me was my BOV must've popped off. (yeah I got a blitz BOV thats held secured on by a metal clamp, I think Im gonna need Jordan to weld it on for me.) anyways, its not the BOV, its still very tight and in place. do a quick visual inspection and everything looks fine, all teh clamps are there and nothing is missing. besides i didnt hear anything fall of or break. so i try starting her up again and this timme she starts. perfectly fine. idle is fine. everything. rev it up a bit and it all seems normal. so i drive on home. NOW, heres the problem, It wont boost. At All. i cant even drive that fast. soon as i go out of vac and hit zero, the car wants to stall. it starts to jerk and if i continue it will stall, otherwise i have to let off and mayke sure im still im vac and not near zero.
What the hell is this?
at first i thought it was the revs being limited but thats not the case, Sitting at idle i can rev the shit outta the car but i wont boost or get out of vac(cant even get the BOV to "PSHHH"). when i drive, long as i dont produce any boost im fine.
if i get on it it jitters and wants to -and does stall unless i let off.
I talke to a few guys and though it might be electrical. so i disconnected teh batt and reset the ecu. after a bit i satrt her up and everything seems normal but its still the same problem, it just can create any boost and it doesnt sound liek the turbo is even spooling. (I think i just hear the intake sucking)
can anybody help? I thought it might be a really huge boost leak but all the pipes are still there and so are the clamps/silicones.
i got stock injectors and im running a big 16, FMIC, BOV, and boost is set to basically stock -peaks at about 10-11psi.(with help from the busta BC)

please help. thanks in advance.
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Offline Jeremy Clarke

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2003, 09:02:32 pm »
Sounds like your IC pipe popped off somewhere. What your describing is exactly what happens when it does. better go have a closer look. Good Luck.
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Aaron Franzen

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2003, 09:05:22 pm »
Even though your ic piping may look connected properly  check carefully! This was happening to me, untill i got a different clamp for mine.
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Offline Charn Gill

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2003, 09:10:55 pm »
I guess ill check it properly tommorrow. its too dark outside right now.
its doesnt seem like any part of the IC piping is missing. I did run my hand over all the pipes from the intake right into the TB and all the pieces were there. could be a clamp somewhere. but if im just missing a clamp, is it supposed to be that extreme of a (i guess i would call it) reaction? Ive had silicone housing crack before and i was still able to boost. this time it goes to zero and thats it.
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95 GS-T ** 91 RX-7 ** 94 Civic Hatch. - B18-C ** 07 Dodge Nittro ** 90 Isuzu Impulse RS ** 98 Eclipse GS-T Spyder

We all own DSM's so clearly we like abusive relationships - Rob Armstrong

Aaron Franzen

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2003, 09:16:08 pm »
The gap that mine had was very hard to see, and the result was very noticable.
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Offline Kevin Chan

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2003, 10:05:47 pm »
start up the car, held the thrttle by hand on the intake manifold.. feel the pipe or around to see if there's any air comming out from the pipe... if it's somewhere near a silicone housing, just try to reconnect it properly and try again... last time my car did this, I felt air blowing to my hand on the intake manifold bend.... where I put my hand to contral the thrttle on the engine....
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Offline Robin Toor

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2003, 01:35:49 am »
Do a pressure test.... take off the intake hose going into the turbo, shove an empty beer bottle in there (or full... but I'd rather drink it first  :D ), and take off the boost hose off the throttle body and pump it full of air with an air nozzle at a gas station. Do this with the car turned off, and get someone to watch the boost guage. It should go up everytime you pump air into it and not go down, as soon as it starts to go down then u know u have a leak, so listen for air leaking out of the hoses and you'll find your leak. If the boost guage doesn't go down and everytime you put air into the motor it holds.. then you do not have a boost leak and most probably it is your ECU. Disconnect your battery for like an hour this time and the plug it back in... maybe is just has to wait for longer before it resets....
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Offline Marty van den Bosch

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2003, 07:17:27 am »
I experienced a very similar set of issues both times that my alternator died (the one when I got the car, then the replacement the other day).

The lack of proper voltage to the needed parts crapped everything out if I tried to step on the pedal.
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Offline Charn Gill

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2003, 01:10:31 pm »
thanks guys.I love the dsm doctors :)
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95 GS-T ** 91 RX-7 ** 94 Civic Hatch. - B18-C ** 07 Dodge Nittro ** 90 Isuzu Impulse RS ** 98 Eclipse GS-T Spyder

We all own DSM's so clearly we like abusive relationships - Rob Armstrong

Offline Charn Gill

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2003, 12:05:05 pm »
*update*
so i thought i would make one of thse intake leak testors. bought the coupler and the cap, had it all ready to set up, thought i would do one more visual inspection. and im looking at all the IC pipes etc. Found out the tha problem was the lower intercooler pipe. the one that comes off the J pipe from the turbo and then bends to the front to enter the intercooler. it just got pushed out of the silicone. loosened the clamp. pushed the pipe back in, tightedned her up (really good) and wala!. she works fine.
but i didnt get to use the leak testor. but i went ahead and made it anyways so i have it for next time.

Is there any other way of securing the silicone and the pipes and clamps? another way of fitting the pipes? i know the clamps should be tight but it seems like just too easy of a problem that could occur. any other methods?
what about one big solid single IC pipe? :)
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95 GS-T ** 91 RX-7 ** 94 Civic Hatch. - B18-C ** 07 Dodge Nittro ** 90 Isuzu Impulse RS ** 98 Eclipse GS-T Spyder

We all own DSM's so clearly we like abusive relationships - Rob Armstrong

Offline Robin Toor

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2003, 12:10:05 pm »
My method: if you ever want to make something solid and hard... use form-a-gasket

form-a-gasket - can be used for everything and anything  :D

its whats holding my car together
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Offline Kimyee Lai

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2003, 02:10:10 pm »
Make sure you have high quality silicone hoses and T-bolt clamps.  Those go a long way in eliminating possible leak problems.
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Offline Mike Schmid

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2003, 02:42:08 pm »
don't forget beaded hard pipes...  Either beaded by a beading tool that bends a bump in the pipe or a bead of weld.  I think some people have put a bead of JB weld on the pipes with good results but that's kinda ghetto.  Plus there's zero chance that a chunk of bend or weld will break off and get sucked into your motor.  Which is more than can be said for JB...
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Offline Jared Clark

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**HELP**she wont boost, stalls.
« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2003, 06:08:27 pm »
JB's holding my tranny together 8)

anyways I have a beaded weld around the ends of my UICP and it hasnt come off since!
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