RTM Heat Barrier Intake Manifold Gasket

[Allen fong]

Anyone tried these? do they work?

[kevin derhouson]

I use it, no idea if it does.. but it's not expensive

logically it does make sense :p

[Jordan Kruger]

It does work.   I havent ran mine yet,    but I know a few people that do and have noted a difference.  It makes quite a big difference if you are able to keep the intake manifold cooler.  Scavenging at its best!

Its inexpensive, seals well, re-usable, and available from RTM with super quick shipping.   

[Robert Vorley]

It does work.   I havent ran mine yet,    but I know a few people that do and have noted a difference.  It makes quite a big difference if you are able to keep the intake manifold cooler.  

I have heard the same thing but I haven't seen any proof yet.  It is probably just a placebo effect but I would love to see RTM's evidence of a "dramatic" intake temp reductions from its spacer.  Under what conditions?  How much of a temp reduction?  

Some amount of heat transfer is likely taking place though, so why not make one yourself, save on the ridiculous price gouge on a piece of plastic ($42), and with the money you saved get some new go fast stickers to show off your cars new found power.   

I came across a good discussion of this @ http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?5121664-Phenolic-intake-manifold-spacer-comparison-034-VS-New-South-Performance-(pictures-of-course)     20v master echoes my feelings. 

This topic reminds me of those Octane Boosters sold @ Walmart etc, that only effectively raise your octane by 0.3 RON.  People still swear they work!!

[Jordan Kruger]

The radiant heat is a power killer on these cars undoubtedly. But I guarantee that it works with the heat transfer between the cylinder head and the intake manifold.  Its 1/4" thick ceramic. Which is good at acting as a thermal barrier.  Swaintech offers ceramic coating on manifolds at .012" that has been proven to reduce temps by 30-40%.

take 2 chunks of aluminum and put a penny between them and clamp them together.  Heat the aluminum with a torch on one side.  See how hot the other aluminum side gets...

Ill bet with a 1/4" thick piece of ceramic used rather than the penny,  the temp transfer will be a hell of a lot lower.
 

[Robert Vorley]

Sadly, keeping the heat in the head doesn't help power production either.

Hey you owe me a penny for the one I melted doing your test!     My guess is you didn't use plastic since it would melt and distort and would become a boost leak source? 

[Jordan Kruger]

haha    plastic bad .   ceramic good. 


and your penny is in the mail. 

As far as keeping the heat in,   I see what you are saying,   but with sufficient cooling in other areas (ie, rad fan(s), radiator, thermostat and good engine bay ventilation )  you should see a benefit.

[Robert Vorley]

Read that thread, the 20v dude suggests how to make "gaskets gains" elsewhere, for cheaper. 

That side of the engine is seriously heat challenged.  On a heat related note, I was going to install a big computer type fan beneath my brake reservoir in order to improve brake feel and reduce brake fade during the summer, under normal driving conditions of course. 

[Jordan Kruger]

I was thinking about that too!   kinda..

Ill bet a good fan that can pull a good amount of CFM out of the engine bay , that is shrouded and ducted to the underside of the car could probably work really good for keeping bay temps down.    But I wouldnt want to put any more load on the cars power supply... 

I think a good start is to get rid of the hood gasket along the base of the windshield.  It helped bring my temps down for sure.

[Robert Vorley]

I think a good start is to get rid of the hood gasket along the base of the windshield.  It helped bring my temps down for sure.

I did that for awhile, although I though it changed the pressure zones underhood, since mine was vented.  I wanted to install tassles to check air flow around and over the hood.

You could go jdm style and life the back of the hood up with a spacer.  Although if you mess with it too much you will add drag which will require more power....etc.  Good idea for auto x though.

[Rob Armstrong]

On a heat related note, I was going to install a big computer type fan beneath my brake reservoir in order to improve brake feel and reduce brake fade during the summer, under normal driving conditions of course. 

Would it not be easier and more efficient to run cooling ducts to cool the discs/calipers?
Better to eliminate the heat altogether then try to cool it after.

[Robert Vorley]

Cooling ducts are great for cooling the rotors which is why track guys swear by them and in extreme cases employ water to cool them.   Brake cooling ducts by themselves probably won't resolve brake fluid heat retention due to high under hood temps aggravated by stagnated air. 

Efficiency is in the details, details like phenolic spacers and gurney flaps that may be hard to quantify (or justify) under normal driving conditions. 

Hooking up a 12v fan on a bracket might be easier than routing and installing brake cooling ducts, but that wasn't my main concern, that and I was half-joking, please note the wink. 

Good points though as ducts do work for repeated hard braking and are a worthwhile mod if they can be made to prevent heat from being transferred through the pads/calipers into the brake fluid in the first place.  Once the heat is there what can be done?  Agreed, prevention is always preferable.

[Allen fong]

Ok well i'll pick one up and take some before and after measurements see how it performs. I know i can't put my hand on my intake mani after a good day of driving. ( i have the scar to prove it) but thats gonna have to wait till spring

[Robert Vorley]

Ok well i'll pick one up and take some before and after measurements see how it performs. I know i can't put my hand on my intake mani after a good day of driving. ( i have the scar to prove it) but thats gonna have to wait till spring

Look forward to your results.  I can't put my hand on my strut tower bar either, and that isn't even touching the head. 

[Jordan Kruger]

Its seems like all cars get stupid amount of engine heat at the firewall.  Especially the poor V8 rwd cars that have two hot headers closely passing by.
Its still bloody warm in a dsm engine bay at the firewall even though the manifold is on the front of the motor. That has me hesitant to mount my dynatek up there. I may do something similar to the suggested 2g install position, which is by the timing cover. I dont know if its any better,  but it seems to me that the sides of the engine bay stay a bit cooler than the front and back (along the whole firewall).
I DO think that the barrier gasket works.  But I also think that you MUST assist its function by venting the engine bay really well before you will see a really good noticeable difference.  Who knows yet though..  It could turn out to be even better than price tag!
But like you said Rob,   it isnt really proven. (atleast not to our knowledge)