Ever since the install of my ACT 2600 Ive been having problems with clutch disengaugement. I found a couple useful links to the fix of the problem.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htmhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981After putting the job off for the last 6 months I finally got the motivation to fix the problem. I first started out with replacing the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder at first. I did notice an improvement but was still having slight problems and the pedal feel was progressively getting worse. Through research I found that to check for a "worn pedal assembly" you need to press in the clutch a few times then pull up on the pedal. If the pedal comes back even more than its normal resting position you have a worn assembly. For reference mine would come up about an extra inch or so.
As the links state, the weakest point in the clutch assembly(this is 1G DSMs only as the 2Gs clutch master is mounted directly behind the pedal) is the clutch pedal lever. Over time and the use of a heavier clutch the rod that is attached to the lever will wear.
There are two options to fix this........A. buy the Taboo bushing kit......B. Weld the lever permenantly onto the clutch rod. I chose method B.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE TIME TO DO THIS............it took me @9 hours to do this project. I found that removing the whole steering column makes things alot easier. Once the pedal assembly is out you'll be find that there will be some play in the lever/pedal assembly. Weld that bastard up and reinstall it.
After everything was back together I noticed that I was still having some problems with disengaugement :? My guess is that I welded the lever in the "warn" position :roll: . So I came up with another idea........
This is a picture of the piece that the clutch master cylinder adjustment rod screws into(no idea what its actually called). The one on the left is what you'll find under your dash. On the one on the right I welded a M8x1.25mm nut on the end and drill out the previous threads. I put a bolt in though the piece and nut to align it when welding. This allows you to further adjust your clutch.........Be carefull to make sure that everything else in your clutch system is working properly.......ie. system is properly bled and such. I had previously installed a washer under the clutch fork pivot ball to try and help with the problem. You can run the risk of pushing the clutch master cylinder rod in too far by doing this mod. As well as putting more pressure on the through out bearing causing it to fail prematurely. I did this as a last resort.
After reinstalling the new piece I noticed a huge improvement. Clutch operation was back to normal. No more "right on the floor" engaugement and all around drivability is much nicer
