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So I think I may go to the junkyard tomorrow and see if what I can find.


I'm hoping I can find some 2g stuff.

Wondering with the ecu, future dsmlink setup, are ALL 95's the same? 420a is different I assume. What about Avengers?  Is there a quick way to make sure that the 95 is the correct one?

Theres tons of info on the 1g ones but all the info for 2g's just say go 95..

1g studs on an abs car are that much of a big deal??  Holy crap.  Good thing my wheels and tires never stay on for long enough to get seized in place, wow...

10 hrs is probably still too high, but its gonna be like Brett said, with parts, labour, shop supplies, tax etc.

that is correct.

Unless there is another group that rents the track out for that timeslot.  I will know by friday is this happens or not as that is the earliest i can make our reservation.

well we have to know a couple things....

first of all 1G ABS and 1G non-abs are different on how you get the studs out.  1G ABS require the complete removal of the knuckle and a press, you have to press the hub out, then you can remove the studs to be able to be able to get at the wheel studs because the ABS ring is in the way..  usually when you press the hub out you will destroy the wheel bearing so you will have to buy a new bearing as well to put back in when it all goes back together. Taking the old wheel bearing out can also be problematic as the outter race tends to sieze into the knuckle/spindle.   This can take a couple hours or more depending on if anything is siezed.  10 hours to replace the studs on one hub is a gross over estimate.  I would say probably around 2-3 hours is the norm for that job on a 1G ABS.... 

On a 1G NON-ABS its super easy beacuse you can just hammer out the old studs and put the new ones in without having to deal with the ABS ring...


On a 2G i beleive its pretty simple job as well cuz the hub/bearing assembly is not a press on unit like the 1G's have.  But if its siezed on there it can end up being very difficuly and time consuming.  Not sure if you can hammer out the studs and replace on a 2G without removing the hub.

Good luck!



But if you have a 1G ABS and had to replace studs on both front sides then i could easily see the job costing over $1000 with new bearings and all the labour to replace them.

bump

we've discusse this around the shop in addition to our trany rebuild services... let me get an offical answer for you (or to anyone else interested)

Just wondering where people get their transfer case rebuilds done? cost?

ask for 95-99, or ask for Stealth non turbo.

[dual-piston]

I personally wouldn't frack around with rebuilding brake calipers unless its a last resort, and on something that really IS out of production like a '62 Lotus Cortina or something.

Don't buy the kit, just the calipers, those will be in stock somewhere as its all 93-99 AWD cars and Stealth/3kGT non turbo cars, plus 91-92 VR4 Galants.

Or that kit that Ziggy sells, or the one Lowell pointed out.

Well it just chaps my ass to have to drop another $150-$200 when all I need is $5 in rubber caliper seals.

Go ahead and find the rebuilt calipers for me.  So far, Lordco, Napa, Mopac have told me nope on rebuilt dual-piston calipers - they can't find any in their system for 1994/1995 eagle talon tsi awd.  The ones they do find in their systems are all single piston.

Jason

Another tip for the dowels and the holes the dowels go into, add a little grease/lube to them before installing, makes life much easier.  I also use a grinding stone (for knife sharpening) and smooth out all edges on trans and block.  For added info, I also do all gasket surfaces with the stone also, some wd40 and light pressure, I haven't had gasket leaks since.  Especially oil pan and valve cover.