Step 1: Prerequisites.Before we even begin to dig into any hardware installation bits, you're going to need a few things:
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1) First and foremost, you will NEED a socketed 1G EPROM ECU. No way around this.
Many 1g cars came with EPROM ECUs from the factory (mine did), and if you're lucky enough to have one, all you need to do is to remove it and get it socketed (and likely re-capped while you're at it.)
For information on how to check to see whether your ECU has an EPROM in it, have a look at TMO's page on the subject:
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/checkeprom.htmIf you find you have an EPROM ECU, ask around on the board and you'll likely find someone able to socket and re-cap it for you. I did my own, and it's not that hard, but it's delicate work, and I happened to have most of the right tools lying around. It's not for the faint of heart.
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2) You're going to want a datalogger. This isn't absolutely necessary, in the strictest sense, but trust me when I say you should have one.
Grab yourself a compatible palm and a serial cable, and you're off to the races. You don't need to spend the bucks on a TMO or Pocketlogger setup.
I've already made a complete guide to making/acquiring a 1g datalogging cable, so if you want, follow that, and just get a Palm.
http://www.labattz.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14717As of August 2006 when this was written, XS Cargo in Vancouver (
www.xscargo.com) has Palm IIIX/IIIXe's that work fine for $29.99 to $39.99. The IIIXe has 8mb RAM instead of the 2mb of the IIIx, so is better suited to longer datalogs.
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3) You're going to need some way to give the ECU the speed density code to run on. There are a few ways of doing this:
a) Cost: $10 or so and maybe a 6-pack.
If you're really really cheap, you can get someone to burn you a chip with a basemap that you will hope is close enough to your setup to work properly. Then, of course, you're stuck with it, however well it works. This is far from ideal, and I strongly discourage this. However, a blank EEPROM is only about $5 or so, and less in quantity, and burning it costs nothing if you have a friend or easily coaxed acquaintance with a burner.
b) Cost: $40 to $100.
You can buy your own EEPROM programmer, from eBay, moates.net, or any of a million different places, along with a spare EEPROM or two, and burn your own chips. This means, of course, that you can change the code if you decide you need to (and you will need to), but each time, you'll have to take the cover off your ECU, yank the chip, and reflash it. This is a royal pain in the ass, but if you're cheap, it works.
c) Cost: $175usd, plus shipping
You can get yourself an Ostrich, which is a realtime EEPROM emulator. It has a USB port on it, and hooks up to your ECU's EEPROM socket with a nifty little ribbon cable, and allows you to change any little bits of code on the fly. With this, you have almost all the functionality of a "real" aftermarket EFI computer, like a haltech E6K, AEM EMS, Electramotive TEC2, Megasquirt, and the like. This is what I have, and this is what you want. Accept no substitutes.
http://www.moates.net/ostrich-real-time-ecm-emulator-p-57.html------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4) You're also going to need two sensors -- a GM 3BAR map sensor, and a GM IAT (intake air temperature) sensor.
Thankfully, these are relatively inexpensive.
a) The GM 3BAR map sensor is easily acquired from any MSD ignition parts dealer. Simply ask for MSD part number 2313. Mopac seems to be the cheapest place in the world for these, they're only $59.42cdn, which is cheaper than the cheapest place on eBay, the cheapest GM parts counter, or anywhere else I could find.
If you feel like getting ripped off, you can go to a GM parts counter and ask for part number 12223861, which should be a 3bar map sensor for an '89 turbo Trans Am, but you're better off at Mopac.
It'll look like this, although the little connector will likely be a different colour.
Unfortunately, you don't get the connector or wiring harness for it, and MSD doesn't seem to sell them.
In GM's infinite wisdom, they have also keyed the connectors for their MAP sensors, so you can't plug a 1Bar connector into a 3Bar or 2Bar sensor, and vice versa. Thankfully, a clever person can take an exacto knife and cut the right notches out of the 1bar connector and make it fit happily into the 3bar map sensor. There are millions and millions and millions of 1bar map sensors and connectors in any junkyard. Just find a 90's era GM car, with a sensor that looks like the MSD one above. Yank the connector along with a good bit of the wiring harness, and cut the slots in it to make it fit into your 3bar sensor. This will range from free to probably about $50, depending on which junkyard you happen to have the misfortune of visiting.
b) You will also need an industry standard GM IAT (intake air temperature) sensor.
These can also be ordered from mopac or any MSD dealer, by asking for MSD part number 2320. They even are nice enough to give you the connector this time.
However, these sensors were also used on a lot of GM vehicles, and while you're out at the junkyard grabbing your harness/connector for your map sensor, you might as well get one of these too. They tend not to fail with age, and mine's from the junkyard and works great. Then again, I'm cheap.
Most GM vehicles use a plastic-bodied sensor that looks like this, and it's just pressed into the rubber air intake tube. These have the same resistance characteristics as the metal sensor shown above, and will work in a pinch, or for temporary testing. I make no guarantees as to how well they'll hold up to high boost levels or heat though, because after all, they *are* plastic.
They'll look like this:
[img]http://www.ls1howto.com/content/partnumbers/pics/12160244.jpg[img]
A select few GM vehicles do use the metal-bodied, open-element air temperature sensors that look exactly like the MSD one pictured above. Try and find one of those if you can -- they're what you really want. I grabbed mine from an Oldsmobile that had the 2.4L Quad Four engine, and it seems most of the Quad Fours have the good sensor, and it's really easy to get to, right on top of the intake. Just make sure to bring a 19mm deep socket with you, or you'll have a hell of a time squeezing a 19mm wrench in there to get it out.
Oh, and just so you know, the connectors are the same between the two, and they aren't keyed. They're completely interchangable, electrically.
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5) You need to ditch your EGR. If you're think you're hardcore enough to do this, you've probably already ditched all your emissions equipment, but if not, you will have to disable/remove your EGR system.
ECUs that use air volume or mass to determine how much fuel to inject don't need to care, for the most part, what the EGR system is doing. Regardless of whether the EGR valve's open or not, the ECU is monitoring how much air flows into the system by measuring it before it hits the intake, and if a little extra exhaust gas and a little less intake charge go into the cylinders, it still knows how much fuel to inject.
For a speed density setup like this, we aren't measuring the number of air molecules entering the engine directly. Instead, we're inferring how many should be going in, based on the pressure in the manifold, and rpm. Unfortunately, our inference is based on the assumption that everything in the manifold contributing to that pressure is air, with a specific oxygen content. When the EGR valve opens and starts letting inert gases into the intake, this is no longer the case, and throws all our fuel calculations out the window.
So, for the greater good, disable your EGR system.
This can be as simple as yanking the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid from the intake manifold and capping the manifold nipple off, or you can take the entire EGR valve off and install a block-off plate if you're feeling ambitious. Up to you.
http://dsmloggers.com/DSM/taboo/emissions.htm